When the day is done.

  It's hard to describe my feelings on leaving Korea.  We did make a home and some wonderful friends during our stay making it more difficult to leave.  None will be forgotten any time soon.  At the same time, I am very excited about seeing family and friends that I haven't seen in a years time.  Here is an account of our last days in Korea.


RETURNING FROM VACATION
  Back from Jeju Island and the packing hits high gear.  We HAVE to go through the last of the stuff and separate clothes that are going on the crate and clothes that are going in the suitcases.  It really comes down to what can we do without until it gets through customs and catches up with us in Austin.  Somehow, we have managed to squeeze everything into 5 checked bags and 3 carry-on bags plus a computer bag and backpack. 


MOVING DAY
  I'm off with the kids to the last Starbucks visit for a quick bite of breakfast and some coffee.  I drop them off at a friends apartment to keep them out of the way of the movers [Thanks again Mark!] and hurry back to the action.   The movers showed up right on time and dove right in.  By the time I returned most of the big stuff was already in a custom box (even my sofa and chairs) and/or taken apart.  The plan was to box up before lunch and pack the truck after.  So far the were right on schedule.  It's impressive to know that 5 guys can pack up all my stuff in 5 hours including lunch!

  Luckily we have a cab waiting for us....and he is flexible since we have to turn everything off before we leave Jeongja.  We head to the big KT building, I have passed hundreds of times on the way to Emart, to turn off the cable and one phone.  Next it is off to the SK building to turn off the rest of the phones.  All this took about 30 minutes.  Meanwhile the skies have opened up and it is pouring down rain.  Monsoon waited just long enough to get my stuff on the truck.  Whew!

  As we finish and the cab pulls away from the curb,  Jason says "Good-bye Jeongja".  Galen quietly starts to cry and I'm right with her.  It rains all the way to Seoul.

THE SHILLA
  Samsung graciously offered to move us into a hotel for a few days.  We decided to pay for the  upgrade to The Shilla in order to leave the country in style!  Jason in all his travels to Korea had always wanted to stay there.  It was the perfect setting to our leaving Korea.  Moving day had taken its toll both emotionally and physically.  We found a restaurant at The Shilla that suited all our palates and chose not to leave the building.  The waiter seemed impressed with our Korean so we finally told him our story of having lived in Korea for the past 11 months.  As we left the restaurant he told us to 'enjoy the rest of our stay' and we smiled back with a nod.  I'm not sure how he meant it but I took it to mean in his country.

LAST DAY WITH DIANE...
  We were lucky enough to meet our Korean language teacher early on in our stay.  Today we were lucky enough to spend our last day with her as well.  We were supposed to visit one more palace in Seoul.  Unfortunately the weather didn't cooperate.  It had not stopped raining from the previous day.   Not wanting to take wet shoes on the plane we would have to amend our plans.   Diane, as always, knew just what to do. 

  We piled into her car and headed toward the Samsung buildings.  Inside one of the main buildings on the first floor is a unique arrangement of all the gadgets and technology Samsung builds.  They call it Samsung D'lite.  It is a hands on display of everything from 3D televisions to cameras, phones to tablets.  Since we are going to need new phones upon our return, I figured this was going to get fun.  In addition, there were whole room displays of the home theatre with the 3D technology that showed movies and video games.  Finally,  there were the appliances.... the power tools for inside the house.  There was one display that accented energy usage within the entire house.  The technology would allow you to save energy and completely manage your electricity usage for the entire house!  I'm so looking for that when I get home. 

  A couple of hours later and we have played every gadget and handled every device.  All the kids, including Jason, were very happy!

  Not wanting the outing to end just yet, we head for the National Museum of Korea.  I had been there several times but Jason wanted to see it.  Back in the car and through the rain we go!  Traffic in Seoul is just like any other mega city.  There is lots of it!  I find myself looking through the windows trying to soak up every last bit before we go.  Who knows when we will make it back.

  Once at the museum we stop for a quick snack at the Cafe.  I will definitely miss the coffee here!  Then we head into the museum.  I am amazed at how much of the Korean history I have learned over the past year.  I am also amazed at how many artifacts they have managed to collect through all the turmoil and wars they have been through.

  As the day goes on, we all know what is coming.  The time when we have to say good-bye to Diane.  Through Facebook and Skype we will keep in touch, hopefully Jason and I will get back to Korea someday for a visit, but it won't be the same as the time we have spent with this amazing woman.  She pulls up to our hotel and the hugs and good-byes start... and then,  just like that,  she pulls away from the curb and disappears into the rainy afternoon.

  We all trudge slowly back to our rooms.   We have some time before dinner to finish packing.  Some stuff had to be rearranged in the suitcases to balance all the weight.  After dinner we head to bed.  Our flight isn't until 10 but with city traffic we plan to leave the hotel at 7am.

OFF TO INCHEON AIRPORT
  No problem getting the kids out of bed today!  We hit breakfast, finish packing and greet the taxi right on time.  Traffic wasn't as bad as expected and we get to the airport and checked in with record speed.  I get tagged for "extra" security which in the States would be the equivalent of first base but in Korea is the most gentle patting.  Once on the plane we all settle in for the long, long, long flight.  Movies are watched, games are played and eventually we all fall asleep. 

  Just when I think I am going to go crazy (er) on the plane we get ready for landing.  13 1/2 hours on a plane is enough for me for a while.  We land in Atlanta and the culture shock begins.  Seeing people of all shapes and sizes, being able to read every sign, and understanding all the conversations around you can be very overwhelming after so many months. 

  When the day is done I have to say "Thanks" to Korea for a wonderful experience.  I made new friends and saw some great sites, but it is good to be back in the United States of America!

Take me to the volcano!!!

GETTING THERE!

  We decided months ago when the Japan trip fell through, that we wanted to head to Jeju-Do Island.  We've been told by everyone it was a "must see" before you leave Korea.  They were right!  We also chose to go after school was out since Galen has had to study during just about every vacation we've taken.  She has earned a true break here.  Amidst all this packing for our return to America, we take a break and head for Jeju.

  Through various sources the trip has taken on an unusual but very local feel.  Thanks to a teacher friend we are staying in a Pension, Korea's answer to the Bed and Breakfast.  With the help of our Korean teacher we made a reservation.  The room included a rental car.  Jason managed to negotiate the Jin Air website and get our tickets (the website is totally in Korean).  From another friend that traveled to the island recently we received the name of a driver.  We are all set for a unique experience!

  The day starts with a brave move, we decide to take the mass transit to the airport instead of a taxi.  We ended up at the airport with plenty of time and at a fraction of the cost;  6000W per person except David he was only 4000W due to his age.  We had a good laugh when we realized the seats on the bus were bigger than the seats would be on the plane!

  Once at the airport, we easily found our airline and checked in.  Once at the gate we realized we had purchased priority boarding.  I'm so glad we did!  It turns out, priority boarding gets you on the plane in zone A (the front of the plane) and first on the plane.  Since it was no assigned seating we were relieved that we did the whole priority thing.  In addition, if you are a foreigner that has purchased priority boarding, they give you extra attention to make sure you don't miss the announcement.  We had an attendant give us updates on boarding every 5 minutes and he actually came to get us first before the announcement was made to make sure we didn't miss it.  We were practically the first ones on the plane.  Turns out your luggage is a priority as well.  Once in Jeju our bags were the first off the plane too!  From what I've heard in the news, airlines from America could sure learn a thing or two from Korea!  The clincher is we only paid 15,000W extra per person, total, round trip for this service.  It was fantastic and a great start to the trip.

JEJU-D0

  We hit the ground running in Jeju.  We knew we only have 2 days on the island so we had a schedule and a driver to save time.  Our first stop was the Mysterious Road.  It was indeed a stretch of roadway that appeared uphill.  The driver stopped the car and put it in neutral.  Slowly the car started going uphill!  Then the driver pulled over and parked.  We got a bottle from a local stand and rolled it down the hill.  Part way down the bottle stopped and went back up the hill.  Jason is still trying to figure this one out!

Explanation of the Mysterious Road phenomenon.

  Our next stop was Halla Mountain.  A volcanic crater complete with a lake.  It would be really fun for me to finally see a Volcano!!  Igneous rock formations are my favorite!  Unfortunately, a cloud also wanted to see the mountain and the top was completely fogged in.  In addition, we found out that to get to the crater lake it was at least a 2 hour hike... one way!  We bailed on this one and went on to the next.

Cloud at Halla Mountain.

  The last stop for the day was the lava cliffs.  They were breathtaking.  I could have watched the waves against the cliffs for hours!

Columnar joints at the lava cliffs!

Fun with Jeju Island statues!

We get close enough to touch the lava!

Goofy kids on a shell.  They started a trend and by the time they got off other kids were starting to get on.

  Exhausted from the days travels were checked in to our room and collapsed!

  Day two started with a lively discussion between Jason and our driver.  Mr. Yoon apparently didn't like one of our destinations for the day.  Nothing is more interesting than Jason and someone in a discussion.  Add a language barrier in there and it can be pure entertainment.  Once everything was straightened out, the driver thought we wanted to go on a 7 hour hike instead of just visiting a statue, we were on our way. 

Cliffs and some coastline along the Lava Island.

More coastline along Lava Island

Great family shot on Lava Island.

  Stop number one was a Lava Island with a view of Sunrise Peak.  More lava coastline and even more spectacular views. 

View of Sunrise Peak from Lava Island. 

  Onward and upward as we headed to the actual Sunrise Peak.  We did the climb in quick fashion so we could marvel at the views and the crater at the top.  Truly amazing to see the actual ash layers and the deep crater.  On the way down, David and I begin goofing off and sitting on every bench we see.  David then uttered what would be the catch phrase of the trip "Don't worry Dad, it's just me and Mom being kids". 

Climbing Sunrise Peak with a break to get David off the "edge".

It's a crater!

Amazing views from the crater of Sunrise Peak.

One more great, but exhausted, family shot.

You can see the layering of the ash within the crater.

The climb back down!

  Next came David's favorite of the whole trip.  In the effort to save time we had lunch at Dunkin Donuts at the base of Sunrise Peak.  Yes, my son will remember Jeju for his first (and last) doughnut lunch. 

  After the quick lunch we headed to the Submarine Ride.  This was a true submarine ride.  On top of it all we got VIP treatment.  An attendant came and got us and made sure we were the first ones on the sub.  We took a boat out to the sub and again they made sure we were the first ones on the sub.  They only sold half the seats on the sub so you could sit on either side and nothing was missed.  A boat was sunk to create an artificial reef and a diver swam by several times.  We went as far as 40 meters down and saw lots of fish and coral. It may have been one of the more expensive things we did on the trip but worth it.  We spent a total 55 minutes completely under the ocean!

Sail bridge near the submarine dock.

A trail you would NEVER see in the States.  In some places you had to jump.  Of course the "monkeys" ran ahead!

Our sub!

The view from on the sub.

David on the boat coming back from the sub.

The island the sub went around from the transport boat.  The Korean flag framed a nice shot.

  Our last stop at Jeju included another steep climb but so worth it at the top.  A Buddist Grotto has to be a truly peaceful place.  The chants inside the rock resonated so well with the sounds of the springwater falling.  The details in the statues were mesmerizing.  I don't want to know how they got those large pieces of stone up that steep a hillside.  It would break the spell for me.  I don't mind just sitting back in amazement. 

Climbing to the Grotto.

The peaceful Grotto at last.  So worth the hike.

View from the top!

  At some point during the day it started to rain but I hardly noticed.  We were having so much fun as a family.  It's hard to believe that this is our last trip closing out our year in Korea.  I'm glad Galen got to enjoy a trip without having to study!

  Both nights we decided to skip the local fare and eat at an international restaurant called Geckos.  When you bring a picky eater on vacation some things have to give.  David was so happy eating his plain burger and not having to try anything new!  It's hard to complain too much when the food really is good.... and the beer is cold!

  Back to the room, we listened to it rain and watched a movie.  Sunday we packed up, went to the airport and made our way back to Bundang.  Now let the packing begin!!  The movers come Wednesday and we head to Seoul Wednesday night for our last days in Korea.  It's been a great year and it's hard to see it come to an end and yet be excited about coming home.

One more before we go..

  We have one more trip planned before we head back to the States next week.  Today we leave for the island of Jeju-Do!  Waterfalls and lava tubes here we come!  Yes, you guessed it, it's a volcanic island off the Southern coast.  We have been trying to get there for a while but the timing hasn't been right.  Now that school is out and Galen can finally enjoy some traveling without studying, the timing couldn't be more perfect.


View Larger Map

  We are staying in a Pension which is the Korean equivalent of a Bed & Breakfast.  Since the trip is so quick (literally on the island for 48 hours) we decided to hire a driver.  One because it wasn't that expensive and two because we didn't want to mess with getting lost or parking.

  Last week we planned out all  our activities with the help of our Korean teacher Ms. Diane.  I am so excited about this one last trip, especially since the apartment in Bundang is ready for the movers on Wednesday!

Look both ways before you cross the DMZ.

The Joint Security Area and the Demilitarized Zone.

   One of our last field trips here in Korea happens to be the most political.  I'm not sure why this tour was saved for last but I'm glad it was.  Now I know so much more about Korean history, the meaning of this place in particular means so much more.  On this day we happen to be visiting the Joint Security Area, the Demilitarized Zone and the 3rd Tunnel courtesy of the USO Tours.

  Korea is the only remaining divided country.  Since the end of the Korean war July 27, 1953 the Military Demarcation Line was formed.  Although most people think the line is straight across the 38th parallel it really isn't.  It's a more jagged line that is a result of where the fighting ended when the armistice was signed [fact from DMZ tour guide PFC Vang].  From that line, 2 meters on each side form the Demilitarized Zone.  In addition to the DMZ there is also a civilian off-limit line which varies from 5km to 20km from the southern boundary of the DMZ. 

Political map of North and South Korea.

  The surprise of the trip was the lush landscape surrounding the area.  Due to the low population density and restrained development of the area, the DMZ has turned into a somewhat untouched landscape.  There is farming in the area, but it is only done by a handful of farmers from the local villages along the line.  For the most part the vegetation on the South Korean side has been allowed to fill in between the farms.  There are several rare species of birds, flowers and insects and reports of Bengal tigers.  The plants and animals along the line have definitely flourished.

Lush vegetation along the DMZ.

  I also saw what I expected to see.  Lots of military.  The area is heavily guarded.  The JSA is the place where the two sides stand eye-to-eye.  The soldiers stand at fight ready attention.  There are very specific instructions on not touching the soldiers, no gesturing especially no pointing, and no talking to the North Korean soldiers at all.  I'll admit I was a little nervous taking an 11 year old on this trip that is used to bouncing and goofing off.  David was really subdued during this part of the trip.  He really didn't like being this close to the other side.  I didn't blame him either, it creeped me out too. 

The Blue Conference Buildings.  South Korean Soldiers watching the North Korean side.  Our guide reminding us of the strict rules inside regarding the soldiers and numerous incidents inside the DMZ and where exactly they took place.

A glimpse at a North Korean soldier.  I had to strongly fight the urge to wave.

    Being inside the blue conference room wasn't any different.  The South Korean soldiers remained in fight ready stance.  I'll admit it was a little spooky.  The rest of South Korea seems so loud, boisterous and lively.  Here, everyone is still and serious.

Our tour guide PFC Vang explaining the importance of the room and readiness of the South Korean soldiers.

Half way across the room is considered North Korean territory.  A line of microphones, all active and recording every word said in the building,  on the table is the Military Demarcation Line in the building.  Through the door on the far side is indeed North Korea.  I'll admit I was kind of relieved to head back to the bus and leave this area behind.  I can't say I liked being watched and listened to by the North Koreans that much.

  Back on the bus we headed for another checkpoint.  At this overlook we were surrounded on 3 sides by North Korea.  I still had that feeling of being watched, but it wasn't as bad as when we were near the conference buildings.  You could see distinctly where the line between North and South here.  Most of the trees were gone from the Northern side, used during the winter for firewood.  North Korea still relies heavily on coal or woodburning stoves for heat.  Also from this vantage point we could clearly see Propaganda Village.  As part of the Armistice both sides are allowed one village this close to the DMZ.  The North Koreans built a Hollywood type set that is uninhabited.  There are lights in some of the buildings and a HUGE flag pole with a rather large North Korean flag.  Other than a few people maintaining it there is no one there.  On some of the buildings the windows are even painted on.

View of abrupt tree line and propaganda village with large flag pole.

Up close North Korean flag pole with flag.

From this village is where the soldiers used to blast music and other propaganda (hence its name) until both sides decided to cease the activity.  Off in the distance you can also see one of the many radio jamming towers that blocks all cell phone signal.  I still have a hard time imagining a country where you could be penalized just for owning a cell phone!

It's very faint in the haze but you can just barely see the jamming tower.

  Onward through the tour we went.  We saw the "Bridge of No Return" where Koreans had to pick which side after the war to live in.  This is where many families are still separated today.  From here we were able to get close enough and see one of the original markers.  All the markers along the DMZ are original from the 50's.  On the South Korean side they are written in Korean script and English.  On the North Korean side they are written in Korean script and Chinese Mandarin.  It would have been neat to see one of the North Korean signs... but I'm not going over there to see it.  I'll just take PFC Vang's word for it!

Bridge of No Return

Original DMZ marker from the 50's.

  This concluded the DMZ/JSA portion of the tour.  Our Army tour guide PFC Vang dropped us off and we continued with our USO guide to the Tunnel portion.  Here is some more information about the DMZ if you are interested:
More info on the JSA/DMZ.
More info on Korean War
National Geographic Article on DMZ from July 2003

The 3rd Tunnel Tour

  In an clear effort to invade South Korea, the North began digging numerous tunnels from the DMZ toward the South.  So far only four tunnels have been discovered, the latest one in 1990.  It is believed that there are several more.  At first the North Koreans denied the tunnels existed or that they were associated with the tunnels.  They have even gone so far as to accuse the South of digging them even though so much evidence has been found to the contrary.  Now they are major tourist attractions.  I do see the irony that the North had planned to use these tunnels to invade the South.  Once discovered the South now uses them to promote tourism.

 Our tour included the 3rd Tunnel only.  I would have loved to get a glimpse at the others!   We were not allowed to take pictures although some on the internet do exist.  They are fascinating to the say the least but do not really capture the essence of it.  I will do my best to describe it but if you ever get the chance I would highly recommend this tour. 

  Our decent into the tunnel took us through a building and down a steep, but wide and tall tunnel.  Everyone could move around and stand up fine.  Once we reached the Invasion Tunnel it was quite different.  Gone were the smooth sides, convenient height and width.  It was replaced with jagged edges of almost solid granite.  I could stand up straight in all but a few places but Jason had to be hunched over the entire time except in a few places.  There was moisture everywhere from ground water seeping through.  You could still clearly see where the dynamite charges had been placed, and they obviously angled from the North side.  Some spots were wider where they ran into softer rock.  I was impressed with how straight it was.  Other than the very few wider and taller in places, the tunnel was dead on accurate.   It may not have been pretty, but it was meant for moving a large number of troops. 

  There is no real way to tell how long it took them to dig as far as they got (within 27 miles of Seoul) since they don't even acknowledge they did it.  Given it was almost solid granite it must have been a while.  Without modern tunneling equipment it would have been some very hard labor involved.  As much as I enjoyed seeing the tunnel;  the rock, the water, the evidence of blasting etc.  It could not have been a pleasant experience for the North Korean that dug it.  I had fresh air being pumped in, rubber mats on the floor and lots of lighting.  Something tells me the guy digging didn't have any of that. 

Brief history of the tunnels and their discovery.

One bad thing about a good thing.

  One bad thing about making good friends in Korea is eventually you will have to say good-bye. 

  When I said the same thing to friends back in Austin, I said it full knowing that I would see them again some day.  That we would miss each other terribly, but in a year we would be back doing the same things we normally do;  lunch, coffee, watching the kids play out front etc.

  What I didn't expect when I made friends here in Korea, was how fast we would bond over such little things as ordering coffee and getting the right drink, or finding a closer grocery store or finding that little ingredient that makes a huge difference in a recipe like celery (yes this took us months to find).  I think being in a country where the population speaks a different language makes you bond with those friends even faster.  Having a conversation in your native language makes you fast friends with something in common instantly. 

  I made a fast friend just this past April because our girls were playing soccer.  Within two hours of rooting for each others kids (luckily they didn't have to play each other they were in different brackets) [Army] Heather and I  were good friends. [I had to nickname her 'Army Heather' since her husband is in the army and I had to keep all the friends I know named Heather in Korea separate.] The type of friends I knew would last longer than the soccer tournament.  Even though we only met up again 2-3 times before she shipped out with her family, I know we will be keeping in touch for a long time. 

  I had the same difficulties saying good bye to my stitching friends.  I met Paula at a girls varsity basketball game that she was the nurse on campus for.  We instantly found common ground in stitching. Mishele was brought into the group when we started a Korean embroidery class in early February.  This spring we have enjoyed several field trips to Seoul seeking out needlework exhibits and thread shopping opportunities.   

  The hardest good bye so far has been watching the Metz's leave.  Today their adventures in Korea came to an end as they headed home. I won't be able to talk about my adventures here in Korea without mentioning and/or thinking of Heather [Metz] because they are so entwined.  From becoming "professional" drivers in Korea,  to navigating through Seoul, or getting her flip flops run over we have been through it all together...laughing the whole way.  I have no doubt that we will meet up with them again someday.  California and Texas are really not that far away, but it won't quite be the same.  It will be a visit or perhaps a vacation.  Not quite the same as the living experience that we have had the past 10 and a half months and I guess that was what made today so sad for me. 

  Good luck Metz's in your transition back to American life!  I miss you already! 

Hole in Seoul

  Holes in cities are amazing things.  They can tell the history of the city in a very different way by the layers it was built upon.  Holes in VERY old cities are even more fascinating... at least to me.  Seoul is indeed a very old city.

 http://english.seoul.go.kr/gtk/about/history.php

  While in the herb market last weekend I spied a group of workers in the street, one was in the hole working, while the others watched (I know typical construction project right?).   I think Jason was already rolling his eyes as I went to check out the hole.  He knew exactly what I was going to do.  Go over and check out that hole!

Herb market in Seoul with workmen off to the left.

  During the Korean War of 1950s Seoul had seen its share of destruction.  Parts of the city had been rebuilt several times.  I knew this meant that there would be some type of layering below the surface.  Sure enough the workman were doing some type of plumbing work.  Jackpot as far as a hole is concerned.  Plumbing holes have to be deep.  This one was no exception.  The hole was quite deep and you could see several layers where debris had been leveled so the city could be rebuilt on top of it.

Nice and neat layers of rock.

The other side of the hole.

Close up of the neat layers of rock and debris.

  I pointed it out to my kids and the Metz's.  I think they thought it was cool.  It didn't matter though I thought it was.  The guys on the construction crew appreciated the break and I gawked at their hole in the ground and obviously took pictures.